Corinthia
CORINTHIA. Coming
from Athens to the Peloponese, Corinthia is the first prefecture
visitors meet. It is also the prelude of the warmth
and excitement that the land of Peloponese promises. The scents
of the sea, of the mountains, of the harvest of the grapes and
currants are spread over, accompanied by the bees' buzzing around
the sheds where the currants are drying. This is where Greek
myths revive. This is where Nemean wine is called "Herakles
blood" and it is believed that retsina wine is the teardrop
of a certain nymph. This is where one can hear stories about
goddesses. About Zeus and Apollo. Where he can come upon columns,
sanctuaries and ancient palaces.Travelling through Corinthia
Just before the Isthmus, to the right, the road veers oft to
Loutraki, a town built on the foofhills of the Gerania range
on the soil of Central Greece, yet still part of Corinthia
prefecture.
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Photo:
Dineke Helmink |
Photo: Ben Polman |
The sky is reflected on the sea. People come and go relaxed
on the beach, swimming and tanning in the summer sun. In
Loutraki there are hof springs, the blessed waters of which
gush from the earth with healing power. Beyond Loutraki,
heading west, there is Vouliagmeni lake which is joined to
the sea by a narrow channel. Near Perahora peninsula, where
there is a picturesque bay, visitors can see the first ruins
at the back of the harbour - these of the Temples of Hera
Akraia and Limenia. This place gives a foretaste of what to expect from the
main sanctuary of Hera in the Peloponnese. Returning to the
highway to Corinth, the road crosses the Isthmus, - which
Greeks use to call the avlaki = the gutter - the direction
towards one of the most important Pan-Hellenic shrines, the
sanctuary of Poseidon at Isthmia (7th c. BC), near Kiravrisi
village, where Pan-Hellenic games were held every second
year. Adjacent to the archaeological site there is a museum
where are exhibited interesting findings. The paintings made
of glass are most impressive. From that place the road leads
to Kehries, the eastern port of Corinth on the Saronic Gulf.
Ancient foundations, most of which are submerged, were excavated
at the harbour's two quays. Traces of the temple of Isis
and an early Christian basilica constructed on top of the
temple can be distinguished. Going further, visitors arrive
to the Baths of Belle Helene (Loutro Elenis), a summer resort
possessing nice beaches and hot springs, to the seaside village
of Almiri and to Korfos, a hamlet built at the head of a
small bay. The region is full of pines and olive trees. The
view of the coast and the little ports around, are unforgettable.
Hard for a visitor to leave behind. Here one can find good
food and a house to stay in surrounded by beauty. Corinth
yesterday and today. Since the ancient years Corinthia was
always being thrown into turmoil by tribes pouring into the
Peloponnese from the Isthmus. Corinth's history began with
the setting of the Dorian's (91h c. BC). It became a great
naval power who perfected the trireme. The Corinthians were
the first to have the idea of cutting through the Isthmus
but were unable to accomplish this feat. Instead, they invented
and built a paved slipway, called the diolkos, to haul their
boats over the Isthmus. They were foremost in the arts, and
particularly in ceramics. The 51h century has been the peak
of Corinth's glory. But due to the success of Athena (Athens)
as a powerful force, Corinth was eclipsed and fell into decline.
In 146 BC the Romans completely destroyed the city. In 67
AC Nero started digging through the Isthmus and got as tar
as a big trench, but works were abandoned after his death.
The canal finally became a reality in 1891-1893. Invasions and looting by barbarians threw Corinth into a new
decline and the city was not heard from again until the early
Byzantine era. In 521 a strong earthquake totally destroyed
the city which rose again in about the 11th century. In 1358
the Franks took over, holding on until 1395 when the Byzantines
gained the advantage, only to sell the city to the Knights
of Rhodes five years later. Corinth, with the most of the rest
of the Peloponnese, fell to the Turks in 1458, became the property
of the Knights of Malta for a time (1612), passed to the Venetians
in 1687 and was recaptured by the Turks in 1715. They ware ousted
in 1822. Today Corinth (Korinthos) ranks among Greece's most
important cities and is a major transportation hub. The church
of the Apostle Paul reminds us of the saint's letters to the
Corinthians and his preaching here. Its long waterfront is one
of the most attractive sports in the city.
The numerous pastry shops, restaurants, taverns, bars, cinemas
and nightclubs make Corinth a city full of life during both
winter and summer. In September and October a theatre festival
is held there with troupes from all over the Balkans as well
as a Pan-Hellenic amateur theatre contest.
Ancient Corinth
The ruins of ancient Corinth are spread out at the foot of
the huge rock of Acrocorinth. The monuments are mainly Roman;
only a few are Greek. It is possible to trace, till today,
the ruins of the long Walls that once began at the summit of
Acrocorinth and descended all the way to lechaion (leheo),
the artificial harbour on the Corinthian Gulf. This was the
starting point of "Lechaion" road which led to the
ancient agora. It was paved with flagstones and lined with
sidewalks, arcades and shops. The marketplace was filled with
imposing buildings, temples and business emporia. The Doric
temple of Apollo (6th c. BC with 1 st c. AD restorations) stands
on a knoll to the north of the agora; it is the most important
monument of that period. To the northwest of the agora can
be seen the ruins of a 4th century BC theatre - which underwent
some changes during the Roman era - as well as the Roman Odeon.
The museum is in the southwest sector of the site. It contains
mosaic floors, Mycenaean and Corinthian pottery, terra cotta
sphinxes, statues of two supernatural beings, engraved stones,
the Roman head of the Goddess Tyche (Goddess of luck) and small
gadgets of various kinds. On the north side of the building one can see the remains of
the fountain of Glauke engraved on the rock. Glauke, daughter
of King Creon, was the reason why Jason left Medea. In revenge
Medea sent her as a wedding gift a poisoned mantle which enveloped
the girl in flames the moment she put it on. In order to save
herself she leapt into the fountain which since then has borne
her name.
Octavia-temple in Ancient Corinthia.
Photo: Frans Kemps
Acrocorinth
The imposing mass of Acrocorinth (Akrokorinthos) rises out
of the ground at the edge of the ancient city. At the top
of the pinnacle, at an altitude of 575 meters, stood the
acropolis of Corinth during ancient and medieval times.
This is the largest and oldest fortress in the Peloponnese.
The Franco-Byzantine-Venetian fortifications (built atop
the ancient walls) and Turkish additions have left deep
signs of their successive claims to supremacy. At the summit,
which offers a magnificent view, there ware a vast number
of shrines and temples dominated by the Temple of Aphrodite.
Lower down is the Upper Peirene Spring. Pausanias mentions
that Peirene was a woman who was transformed into a spring
due to the tears she shed for her son who had been killed
by Artemis.
The mountains of Corinthia
From Acrocorinth the road continues on to Nemea. Here the
soil is yellow and dry, ideal for the cultivation of grapes.
The whole district is covered with vines. The neighbouring
village of Herakleio is the witness to the passing of the
mighty Herakles. It was in this area that the legendary
hero slew the fearsome Lion of Nemea. There is not much
left of ancient Nemea: three columns from the temple of
Zeus, a few foundations, the outline of a palaestra and,
500 meters down road, the stadium. It was here that the
Pan-Hellenic Nemean Games ware held, in honour of some
local hero. They look place every two years and the victors'
reward was a crown of wild celery. From Nemea the road
leads to Stimfalia, a mountain village in the region of
Ziria. The lake no longer harbours man-eating, iron winged
birds; they ware destroyed by Herakles. All that is left
is the ruined temple of Artemis (Diane) and the walls that
encircled the old city. In the region there is also a Frankish
church (13th c.) and ruins of a Frankish castle. At the
foothills of Ziria (Mount Killini, where Pausanias had
seen white blackbirds), between the villages of Goura and
Feneos, every year on the second Sunday of September a
big fair is held.
The road proceeds to Kastania, a charming mountain village
(alt. 920 m.), surrounded by fir trees. It is one of the
most popular places in Corinthia for winter holidays. One
more revelation amongst the pine - and fir clad slopes of
Ziria is Trikala village (alt. 1,300 m.). The Ziria refuge
lies 5 km. from there. From Nemea visitors are directed through
Dervenakia pass where the hero of the Greek revolution Kolokotronis
(called also "Old Man of the Morea"), destroyed
a Turkish army. The road for Argos runs through it, while another road leads
to Hiliomodi, Klenia and Agionori, where there is a medieval
castle and a church with lovely frescoes.
Western Corinthia
Scattered along the National Road from Corinth to Patras
are pretty little villages near the sea. Villages that
promise quiet places, good food with fish and seafood,
friendly discussions with locals, a swim, hot sand and
unforgettable sunsets. To reach Kiato, a town in the midst
of a huge orchard the road traverses a series of villages
Perigiali, Assos, Vrahati, Kokoni, Velo. Octopuses, the
fisherman's favourite food, are hanged on the share, drying
in the sun.There are no antiquities here, just sand and
pebbles being tossed tirelessly by gentle waves. After
Kialo a quick visit to the Hellenistic ruins of Sicyon
(Sikiona) is a must. What has remained from the ancient
city are just the ruins of the agora, of a temple, of the
bouleftirion, of a theatre and a stadium. The Roman baths, the most important monument, have been refurbished
and converted into a museum where are exhibited findings
from around the area. Long the coast road, villages pass
before your eyes in an endless procession. Diminio, Melissi,
Sikia, Xilokastro -each one being a pleasant place 10 make
a short break. And all along the way, fruit trees, pines
and even palm trees rustle in the breeze. Kamari, Loutro,
Likoporia, Derveni. Bays and coves and lapping waves. Places
that can make memories revive and at the same time they can
erase all of them at once. Sit in a taverna, under a grape
arbour or in the shade of soma leafy tree, and enjoy the
tasty cooking of Corinthia: a charcoal grilled fish, wild
herbs boiled, fried potatoes, feta cheese, olives, wine under
the scented, sun-drenched vines and .... cheers!
Source: Greek National Tourism Organisation
